|
A Luxury Safari Story
by Safari Travel Fundi
Sabi
Sands Game and Safari Lodges
It's hard to believe, as
the small plane touches down at Sabi Sabi's airstrip, that we are just
an easy hour's flight from Johannesburg. It's another world here - quiet,
undisturbed, unhurried.
Elliot,
who will be our guide for the duration of our trip, meets us off the plane.
His ready smile, incredible bush knowledge and quiet confidence will be
a hallmark of our visit; one of the things that make us long to go back.
After a quick refreshment and cooling lemon towels we are ready to leave
for our lodge.
A brief orientation brings
us back down to earth. We are in the heart of the Sabi Sand Wildtuin, home
to Africa's big game, Elliot explains, and there are no fences between
our reserve, the Kruger National Park and Mozambique. Big game? No fences?
Open vehicles? The bush is deceptively quiet for a city dweller, concealing
hundreds of creatures big and small. One of the other guides tells us that
just the day before a pride of lions had brought down a zebra right next
to the landing strip. Our safari has begun.
A luxurious African Safari
Experience
Our visit to Sabi Sabi Private
Game Reserve came with the choice of four lodges: Bush Lodge, Little Bush
Camp, Selati Camp and Earth Lodge. We opted to spend two nights at the
redesigned Bush Lodge and then two at Earth Lodge, which is a popular option
available to visitors. Having been told that Bush Lodge had recently undergone
a total redesign and remodelling project, I was expecting to see a new-looking
lodge. However, on arrival, it was difficult to imagine that Bush Lodge
hadn't been there for years, so warm and inviting is the whole atmosphere
- not to mention the staff. The lodge entrance manages to be incredibly
luxurious while conveying the feeling that you are visiting a close friend's
home. Sabi Sabi operations director, Rod Wyndham, who together with wife
Lauren run Bush Lodge, explained that the philosophy behind Bush Lodge's
redesign centred around a providing a haven in the bush while reflecting
the many African influences behind the design. Everywhere there are artefacts
from all over the continent - a mix of colonial and ethnic - brought together
by rich fabrics and textures and a design that looks out across the bush
over a waterhole. After a brief introduction from Rod we were shown to
our beautiful suite and invited to return for late afternoon tea followed
by an evening safari. For those who have never experienced an African game
lodge, it difficult to convey the luxury that exists in such close proximity
to totally unspoilt wildlife. We were so taken with our suite we considered
missing the evening drive, but eventually decided to give it a go - a very
good decision in the end.
Afternoon
tea is taken on one of two huge decks overlooking a waterhole and furnished
with huge, comfortable chairs ideal for relaxing and surveying the bushveld.
Soon we were heading out again - this time on evening safari with Elliot
and Phios. We hadn't driven very far when we spotted two giraffes feeding
in a thicket. Given their proximity to our lodge I was very grateful they
weren't lions, but didn't admit this to the party we were with - all seasoned
bush goers. As our drive progressed, the heat abated, the light softened
and the shadows lengthened. We saw a herd of elephants, breathtakingly
close; kudu, zebra, hippo and the shy nyala before Elliot's radio announced
a sighting close by of 'dogs', which caused instant excitement on our Land
Rover. Suddenly it dawned on me - we were about to experience what very
few people ever do - African wild dogs, one of the continent's endangered
and seldom seen species. En route to the sighting, Elliot explained that
while wild dogs are often on Sabi Sabi property, there hadn't been a sighting
for a couple of months. He reminded us to remain seated and quiet and we
set off. About five minutes away we slowed down and approached the area
where Sven, another guide had spotted the dog family - five adults comprising
three female and two males. I was struck by how small they are, especially
when Elliot explained that they are one of the most successful hunting
animals in Africa with 90% success rate. They hunt in packs, efficiently
and without fuss. The family seemed to be on the move and soon we were
following them. They were on a trail, every so often stopping to survey
their surroundings through sight, hearing and smell.
Years of habituation have
made the animals at Sabi Sabi almost oblivious of the safari vehicles and
the family carried on as if we were not just a few metres away. It was
awesome to see these animals behaving normally in their natural habitat.
Moving off road to keep with the sighting, the dogs picked up their pace
on the trail of some prey until we lost them in a thicket of thorn trees.
After trying unsuccessfully to locate them further on - they had disappeared
as quickly and quietly as they had appeared - Elliot suggested we stop
for sundowners. While we encountered the most incredible wildlife during
our stay, including lions hunting, two different leopards, hippo, buffalo
and even a snake, the wild dog sighting was the highlight of our game viewing.
Sundowners are served in the open bush, a refreshing break before resuming
the safari in darkness. Returning to Bush Lodge we forewent the chance
to freshen up for dinner in favour of adjourning to the welcoming bar to
swap stories with other guests and compare notes on our experiences.
A
four-course boma dinner, complete with fresh venison and an array of other
dishes, was accompanied by a fine wine from an impressive collection. An
early night was called for as morning wake up call was just a few hours
away.
Our days at Bush Lodge followed
in the same gentle rhythm, two daily safaris, delicious food and wonderful
staff, mainly from the local Shangaan communities of Huntingdon, Justicia
and Lilydale.
On our third day we transferred
to Earth Lodge. The arrival is totally unexpected as the lodge is all but
invisible from a distance, being sculpted into the earth and having been
recreated to blend seamlessly with the surrounding bush. It was the first
lodge of its genre to break with the colonial tradition and the effect
is breathtaking. It has clean lines that look out over unspoiled bush,
an unadorned cement and pigment finish and uses influences from nature
in its every aspect: buck horns as legs for chairs, uprooted trees carved
into elaborate furniture pieces, natural skylights, anthill roofs for the
suites. Our suite is the most luxurious we have ever stayed in. Dominated
by a huge carved wooden bed, it opens up to a private splash pool and the
bush. An enormous bathroom with a stone bath has uninterrupted views of
the bushveld, and there are indoor and outdoor showers. I indulged in an
outdoor shower for the first time although they are also a feature at Bush
Lodge. The main lodge has an indoor / outdoor dining area, reading lounge,
Zen garden, Camelot spa and a 6000-bottle subterranean wine cellar where
we enjoyed unique Earth Lodge cuisine for our last dinner at the reserve.
All too soon the visit was
over and we were driving to the airstrip where we had arrived. En route,
we saw and heard an African fish eagle, surely one of the most evocative
sounds in the wild - and a fitting end to a wonderful experience.
top
Sabi
Sands Game and Safari Lodges
About the Author - This travel
article was written by a guest at Sabi
Sabi Private Game Reserve in South Africa. |